We got up at 5:30
after a
sleepless night. It had been awful. All night we had lain in bed
listening to each other tossing, turning and groaning. The power had
not been restored and the fans didn't work. We were too hot and we had
been attacked by mosquitoes. Bzzzz all night, and their bites are quite
aggravating. It was my first experience of mosquito bites and no one
had warned my to bring a net.
We left for the bus station at what we thought was 6:00, but were later
told it was 6:10 because Nepal is 10 minutes ahead of India (can that
be true? If so, why? we didn't believe it). It had rained all
night and everywhere was muddy. Rucksacks stowed on the bus we went for
breakfast: egg and toast with tea. Not too bad at all.
The bus departed at 7:05 and was scheduled to arrive in Kathmandu at
15:00. The bus was surprisingly comfortable, at least to start with.
The roads out of town were muddy and in some cases completely flooded.
British drivers would have shied away from far less, but the bus must
have been built like a tank.
We headed
out
of town.
The low ground was flooded but the vegetation
was leafier and greener than anything I had seen in my journey across
the north Indian plain. Soon we were going up hill, nothing very steep
initially, but a pleasant change after absolute flatness of the Indian
plain. It was raining and overcast and, yes, you've guessed: I couldn't
take any photographs with my slow film. We continued heading upwards.
Now the mountains around us were spectacular. The road was bumpy. At
9:40 we stopped for food but as none of us was hungry we wandered
around. Ben started sketching and was instantly surrounded by
curious locals.
Food stop on road
to Kathmandu
The journey continued, up and up.The roads were narrow ands the U turns
were frequent (I noted in my dairy that Mrs Thatcher wouldn't have
liked it, so her Lady's not for turning speech must have Ben haunting
me). We went no where except up, for over three hours, zigging and
zagging higher and higher up the narrow, twisting roads. The driver's
mate, sitting on the roof banging signals, warning when we were too
near the edge. I thought of my grandmother. She was scared of mountain
passes, and even in Wales had tried to persuade my dad to drive on the
wrong side of the road so she wouldn't be close to the precipice.
Was I scared? Not really, the scale was too large to
comprehend.
The driver did it every day - the odds must have been in our favour. I
settled into a calm acceptance that sometimes there were only inches
between us and oblivion and the driver couldn't see the road round
round an impossible looking bend, but shouted to his mate on the roof.
The scenery was breathtaking. Steep, very steep, terraced slope
emerging through the clouds. I was amazed by how apparently so few
people had cultivated so much or the, to me, inaccessible slopes.
After what seemed like climbing for ever I realised we had started out
descent. Down to the Kathmandu valley. The journey must have been more
interesting and comfortable than the train. I realised I had not been
constantly referring to my watch.
We didn't descend for long. A lorry in front of us had broken down in
the middle of the road. What a place - this must have been half way
from somewhere to no where. Hours from anywhere. Another lorry had
tried to squeeze past on the outside. Oh brave driver, and the road had
crumbled away, leaving his lorry stuck at a precarious angle. Another
lorry had tried to pass on the inside and had slipped into the ditch,
also at a precarious angle. (Maybe the first lorry tried the
inside track, and the 2nd the outside - would make more sense, just).