Home
Home
Our House The Gallery We live here Our family tree Shingle Street
Our Place The Gallery We Live Here Genealogy Stuff Holiday Destinations
Best viewed at 1280x1024 pixels

Liz ran the Potters Arf to raise money for Douglas Macmillan Hospice. Thank you to all sponsors!
Not sponsored me yet? Still time to donate - click below.
Race Pictures here.

In this release
07/09/2008
New in this release
Christmas Newsletters
Links and Resources
Technical Home
Louise's Cross-country

In this section:
Main Holiday Page
An Indian Journey

1. Delhi to Agra Return
To New Delhi
Sikandra Mausoleum
Agra
The Taj Mahal
Small Town and the slow train

2. Overland to Kathmandu
The Train Journey
By Bus from Mazafarpur

3. The Kathmandu Valley
Kathmandu
Shopping and eating
The Monkey Temple
Exploring Kathmandu
Patan and Pashupatinath Temple
Budhanilkantha Temple
Kathmandu to Patna

4. Patna and Varanassi
Patna
Varinassi - the Ganges
Varinassi - Illness strikes

5. Amritsar
Golden Temple a brief look
Golden Temple and exploring Amritsar

In Association with Amazon.co.uk

By bus from Mazafarpur

pm Tuesday 25th August: Mazafarur to Raxaul

From the railway bridge we could see into the town. It was flooded in murky water to about 6-8 inches.

Mazafarpur flood

We enquired about trains. The next train was at 2:30, a two hour wait, and would take 5 hours!! After this morning's train: dismay. But there was a bus which took only three hours. A better bet. We'd get the bus.

I tried to take a photograph of Jane and Ben looking dejected, sitting at the station, but an officious clerk from the booking office pounced on me and went wild. Seems like you could end up in jail for years for taking photographs of Indian railway stations. Whoops. I'd already done it several times. I doubted it could be true - but I wanted a quiet life. I put my camera away, it was too dark for my super slow film anyway. The toilets were awful, but then I suppose the flooding knackered the plumbing.

We went out into the town. We got a rickshaw to the bus stop - about ¾ mile. I wouldn't walk through the flood. Urgh .... who know what was in the water. I'd seen the gutters and drains in Agra when it was dry. Suppose I had a cut on my foot. The risk or (or at least the thought of) infection was too much for me.  The first part of the ride was through the flood. Indian town life went on apparently as usual all around as though the flood wasn't there. The second half of the ride was merely through deep mud. The shops on either side were lively and colourful despite the mud. There were some good fruit stalls. The concrete reinforcing rods were evident everywhere, just like Agra. I was beginning to think that there had been a mass strike by Indian builders leaving all the construction work suspended. Apparently, it is common practice to leave a building in a way which makes it easier to extend upwards to accommodated younger generations need for independence and space from the parents home and or business.

Mazafarpur flood 2

We arrived at the Rauxaul bus and got on. It was empty. we chose our seats. Rs 12/- said the driver. It leaves at 1:45pm. I waded through the mud to buy fruit. Six bananas and six oranges, all for Rs 5/-. The bananas wee the best I've ever tasted. Maybe it was just because we were so hungry. Later Jane got off the bus and we waded back through the mud again to buy bread and biscuits.

The bus set off on time. Out of the town through flat, flooded country side. The bus stopped often and the passengers changed frequently. Most were not traveling the entire way to the border. The ride was smooth and uneventful. Stops were often lengthy and the 3 hours journey stretched to 4½.  We arrived in Raxaul about 18:00 and it was already going dark. We hired two rickshaw drivers to take us to the border. It was difficult not to - we were besieged and it would have been virtually impossible to escape and walk the short distance.

1st stop, Indian immigration, although we were leaving and not entering the country. Jane and Ben went in first while I waited outside. I took out my camera. Uproar. I was obviously a spy - but an ill equipped one. It was already too dark for my slow film.  I went in. No other trouble at Indian immigration - next stop the Indian "baggage" check. They just checked our passports again and waved us through. Next to the Nepalese immigration.

We didn't have visas, but we had been told they were available at the border. But Jane and I didn't have suitable photos and it was going dark. Never mind,said the official, send me some from Kathmandu - he issued the visa and we were into Nepal. Now for the baggage station - customs. We filled in forms to list our valuables: cameras, films, watches ... we didn't have cigarettes or booze, which seemed to bring some disappointment.

The hotel Suraj (which Ben insisted on pronouncing "sewerage") had been recommended and the rickshaw boys took us on a bumpy ride through the pitch black streets. My driver had trouble with his bicycle chain and I was separated from Jane and Ben. When I arrived there was trouble about the payment for the rickshaw, I wasn't sure what the problem was, but one of the hotel staff came and sorted it out. It was quite a "smart" hotel. Rs 45/- for the three of us for one night. Our room had three beds with a separate toilet and shower. Appearances were good, but the shower was only cold, not even tepid, and the toilet wouldn't flush - but the hotel had thoughtfully provided a bucket of water. Nevertheless after the mud of Mazafarpur and the two days of traveling, even a cold shower was welcome.

We booked three seats on the bus to Kathmandu - a 7:00 start - tomorrow, then we went to the hotel restaurant. It was suddenly very dark, a power cut, something we would become accustomed to over the next week. Out came the candles and we ordered our food - a bit too much but it was edible and a relief after all the fruit and biscuit. We retired to bed, still in the dark and provided with candles, for our early start next day.
Wednesday 26th August: Bus to Kathmandu

We got up at 5:30 after a sleepless night. It had been awful. All night we had lain in bed listening to each other tossing, turning and groaning. The power had not been restored and the fans didn't work. We were too hot and we had been attacked by mosquitoes. Bzzzz all night, and their bites are quite aggravating. It was my first experience of mosquito bites and no one had warned my to bring a net.

We left for the bus station at what we thought was 6:00, but were later told it was 6:10 because Nepal is 10 minutes ahead of India (can that be true? If so, why? we didn't believe it). It had rained all night and everywhere was muddy. Rucksacks stowed on the bus we went for breakfast: egg and toast with tea. Not too bad at all.

The bus departed at 7:05 and was scheduled to arrive in Kathmandu at 15:00. The bus was surprisingly comfortable, at least to start with. The roads out of town were muddy and in some cases completely flooded. British drivers would have shied away from far less, but the bus must have been built like a tank.

We headed out of town. The low ground was flooded but the vegetation was leafier and greener than anything I had seen in my journey across the north Indian plain. Soon we were going up hill, nothing very steep initially, but a pleasant change after absolute flatness of the Indian plain. It was raining and overcast and, yes, you've guessed: I couldn't take any photographs with my slow film. We continued heading upwards. Now the mountains around us were spectacular. The road was bumpy. At 9:40 we stopped for food but as none of us was hungry we wandered around.  Ben started sketching and was instantly surrounded by curious locals.

Food stop on road to Kathmandu
Food stop on road to Kathmandu
The journey continued, up and up.The roads were narrow ands the U turns were frequent (I noted in my dairy that Mrs Thatcher wouldn't have liked it, so her Lady's not for turning speech must have Ben haunting me). We went no where except up, for over three hours, zigging and zagging higher and higher up the narrow, twisting roads. The driver's mate, sitting on the roof banging signals, warning when we were too near the edge. I thought of my grandmother. She was scared of mountain passes, and even in Wales had tried to persuade my dad to drive on the wrong side of the road so she wouldn't be close to the precipice.  Was I scared? Not really, the scale was too large to comprehend. The driver did it every day - the odds must have been in our favour. I settled into a calm acceptance that sometimes there were only inches between us and oblivion and the driver couldn't see the road round round an impossible looking bend, but shouted to his mate on the roof.

The scenery was breathtaking. Steep, very steep, terraced slope emerging through the clouds. I was amazed by how apparently so few people had cultivated so much or the, to me, inaccessible slopes.

Road to Kathmandu 2

After what seemed like climbing for ever I realised we had started out descent. Down to the Kathmandu valley. The journey must have been more interesting and comfortable than the train. I realised I had not been constantly referring to my watch.

We didn't descend for long. A lorry in front of us had broken down in the middle of the road. What a place - this must have been half way from somewhere to no where. Hours from anywhere. Another lorry had tried to squeeze past on the outside. Oh brave driver, and the road had crumbled away, leaving his lorry stuck at a precarious angle. Another lorry had tried to pass on the inside and had slipped into the ditch, also at a precarious angle.  (Maybe the first lorry tried the inside track, and the 2nd the outside - would make more sense, just).

Accident on road to Kathmandu

PreviousUpNext
Go to the top of this page
Google
Search WWW Search www.thesticks.org

You may contact us at Email Address

There have been 387 hits on this page This page was last modified: April 14 2007 14:14:43.