India August 1981

Agra

21st August: Lost in Agra

The rickshaw now took me across the River Jumna, it was a slow, stop start crawl across the narrow bridge. Axles of oxen cart, traveling in opposite directions became entangled, bringing the already slow traffic, to a noisy, hooting and tooting halt, while the carters pulled, mauled and man handled them free.

We cycled along the river, the great red walls of the Agra Fort to my right,

and then across a bend in the river I saw the Taj Mahal. He was taking me there at last.

But no. He stopped for me to explore the Red Fort but I didn't go inside. Spent Rs 8/- on a bottle of chilled water - but despite the price it was delicious, straight out of the ice (literally) box - and asked again to be taken to the Taj, but he said that morning was a better time to see it. At least I think he did. Nevertheless we set off - but once again not to the Taj Mahal. The Rickshaw driver said it was his duty to take me to the marble factory, the jewelers and the silk sari shop. I went - there was nothing I could do to prevent it. We headed away from what I though was the centre of Agra and once again I was lost. At the first shop the attentions of the shop keeper and the earnestness of the rickshaw man made it impossible for me to leave empty handed. I bought two marble trinket boxes for £2 that I didn't really want or even, at the time, like. I felt vulnerable and at the mercy of the two men. No one knew where I was and I wasn't where I wanted to be. I resented feeling pressured and out of control. Over the years I grew to appreciate the little boxes, they were well made and I have to admit very cheap, and was upset when one of my children broke one. I was taken to a few more shops but refused to buy anything else. The rickshaw man was frustrated and moaned, he kept pointing at my purse and then at the goods on sale and saying "Big Pocket", but I wouldn't buy anything. I didn't know how much money I needed for the rest of the holiday and I was on a very tight budget. I was scared of overspending. This was only my first full day. Eventually, tired of each other, the rickshaw man took me back to the tourist bungalow somewhere near to Agra Cantt station. I bought a pineapple and some oranges for tea and then, after writing up my diary, I went to bed. It goes dark very fast and early. I slept reasonably well.

22nd August: The road to the Taj Mahal

Got up about 6:30 and went out about 7:00. Took a Rickshaw into Agra, actually went to the railway station which was useful. The station master changed my Rs 50/- note. Anything over Rs 10/- is useless as no one has any change. I spent an hour wandering the streets which were mostly empty , it being still rather early for the busting trade of the day. I was shocked by the squalor and filth. Rubbish lying everywhere, pigs rummaging. I thought it smelled like sewerage, probably was.

As I wandered the shops began to open, small tatty canopies pulled out in front of tiny rooms, all raised about 2ft 6in from the floor. All sorts or tradesmen: millers, tailors with their colourful cloths, confectioners. Many fruit stalls, mainly on wheeled trolleys. A man delivering milk from an urn, children queuing with steel mugs and jugs. Cows, pigs and dogs mixing with the growing street community. I wander along. Everyone stares at me. Many people say hello, rickshaw drivers start to pester.

I walked down to the river and turned towards the Taj. The roads were muddy and dusty . After about a mile I took a rickshaw and this time was delivered to the Taj Mahal. it cost me Rs 2/- to get in. The contract with the outside was overwhelming.

The Taj Mahal: peaceful, quiet, smart, clean and stunningly beautiful with its white marble, carvings and jeweled inlays. I'm here at last. One of the wonders of the world.

Shake the red dust from my feet. Sit down and take it in. It was somehow fresher and cooler in here. The wonder was not the grand architecture, the cool white marble mausoleum but the contract between this calm tranquility and the streets of Agra outside. I had walked through a tear in the universe and into another dimension.