After feasting on an expensive breakfast we walked back to the station and made a reservation on the 02:30 sleeper for Varinassi (Banares). Sounds simple, but despite the very short queue it took us an hour. Everything in India seems to be done as slowly and methodically as possible and with all the documentation made in at least triplicate. There is absolutely no point trying to rush anyone. After awhile one slows down and adapts to the unhurried business and the sedate pace of life around. The trains move slowly and people wait patiently (or sometimes not) for hours, and hours.

After the train ticket we sought out a bank to change money. Another long and tedious job. Better make it part of the holiday experience rather than a functional necessity to get out of the way as quickly as possible. Changing money was not an easy task. It is no use walking into a bank and expecting to cash a traveler's cheque. We went into a least four banks before being directed to the main branch of the state bank. We walked about 2km to find a bank where we could get money - fortunately it was in the general direction we wanted to go anyway.

On the way to the bank we passed a sugar cane drink stall. Jane and Ben had tried it elsewhere on their travels in India and highly recommended it. So we bought some; 75 paises per glass.

The drink is made by pressing the lengths of sugar cane between rollers and collecting the sap. The cane is broken and folded and squeezed again, over and over again until the cane is reduced to a dry shredded mess. For our drink we got a squeeze of lemon juice too, but sometimes it is lime or even ginger. I liked it, but noticed that the juice seller had only a couple of glasses and between customers rinsed them out in a bucket of murky looking water. Had this been a wise buy. Two weeks ago I would only drink bottled water and now I was trying exotic juice from a dirty glass.

In the bank - yes  - slow, do everything in triplicate paper work style, they were fascinated by my being left handed. I don't know why. Anyway,  cash replenished, I headed for the Air India office to buy a ticket for Amritsar which I had decided I would visit after Varinassi. In contrast to the methodical thoroughness of the railway station and bank, the airline office didn't check the availability of the flights or seats. They simply wrote out and handed me the tickets. $80, not bad I suppose for a return flight from Delhi to Amritsar, but now I am broke. I'll have to get my $54 back from Jane and Ben (flights out of Kathmandu).

We continued to walk, heading for the Beehive, which is near the shores of the river Ganges. The beehive is a large granary build to store grain after a famine several hundreds of years ago (history here not my strong point). I don't think it has been used.

I was still determined to try some Indian snacks, cooked at and sold from the roadside stalls. I bought two samosas, mainly potato but with spices of some sort, 30 paises each and very nice too,: spicy but not too hot. We also bought ice cream. Two weeks ago I wouldn't have dared, but now I'll try anything: sugar cane juice, ice cream and local snacks. Somehow I have convinced myself that I shan't (can't?) get ill. The temptation of the food is causing a sort of recklessness.

We climbed to the top of the beehive. It was hot, humid and a struggle. The view from the top was worth it: great panoramas across the Ganges.; a wide river with no visible banks,  just abroad swathe of water laid like a ribbon across the flat country side. It was very hot. We had to rest before descending down to the river side.

We were immediately surrounded by hoards of people, mainly but not all children. They simply stand and stare, preventing our passage. We stand and stare back. Eventually they smile, we smile and they move out of our way and let us pass.

Buffalo, bicycles, people and clothes. All are being washed in the muddy waters. The water looks so clouded with mud, I'm surprised it cleans anything.